A chair that only gets a new fabric can look beautiful, yet quickly start sagging or creasing again. The difference often lies under the upholstery. With this overview of furniture upholstery materials you not only choose a beautiful exterior, but also build up your furniture comfortably, tightly and durably.
Whether you are reupholstering a dining chair, sofa, camper cushion or restaurant seat: always start with how it will be used. An armchair in a quiet reading corner needs something different from a family sofa with children and pets. If you match material, construction and finish, you get a result that stays beautiful for longer and is more comfortable to sit on.
Overview of furniture upholstery materials: from the outside in
In upholstery, several layers work together. The visible upholstery fabric largely determines the look, but foam, Dacron, webbing and fixings determine how the furniture feels and how long it keeps its shape. So assess a good project from the outside in.
The basis usually consists of the covering, a comfort layer, filling or foam, support and the right finish. Not every piece of furniture has all these components in the same form. A simple loose seat, for example, often needs less build-up than a classic armchair with springs and fixed upholstery.
Upholstery fabric: looks and abrasion resistance
Upholstery fabric comes in many textures, qualities and price ranges. Don't choose on colour alone. The way a fabric is woven, the composition of the fibres and the intensity of use are at least as decisive.
Woven upholstery fabrics are very versatile. They are available from fine and calm to coarse and pronounced. A coarse-woven fabric gives a sofa or armchair a warm, contemporary look, while a finer weave often looks neater on sleek dining chairs. With an open or coarse structure, however, watch out for pets: claws can catch on loops more easily.
Velvet feels soft and instantly adds depth to a piece of furniture. Because of the pile, the colour can look different from different directions. That is a characteristic of velvet, not a manufacturing defect. This fabric suits armchairs, headboards and luxurious seating well. For intensive use, preferably choose a furniture quality with sufficient abrasion resistance and a practical finish.
Chenille is popular for its soft, full feel. The yarns provide comfort and a rich look, but depending on the quality the fabric can be more sensitive to pressure marks or signs of use. Corduroy, on the other hand, adds relief and a recognisable retro look. With corduroy the direction of the ribs is important: keep it the same on all separate pieces for a calm end result.
Bouclé has a characterful, looped texture. The material suits a calm, natural interior beautifully, but needs attention with intensive use. For a decorative armchair, bouclé is often an excellent choice. For a much-used dining chair or a sofa with pets, a closed, easier-to-clean fabric is usually wiser.
Faux leather and Skai: practical and easy to care for
Faux leather, also often called Skai, is popular for dining chairs, contract furniture, hospitality, campers and boats. It is easy to wipe clean, gives a sleek look and is available in many colours and leather looks. Moreover, there is no hide with natural scars or colour variations, so colour and texture are generally more consistent.
On the other hand, faux leather must be worked properly. Material that is too thin can show marks or tear more quickly on sharp edges, while a heavy quality is less forgiving with complex shapes. Use a suitable needle and strong thread and avoid unpicking unnecessarily, because needle holes remain visible. On seats, sufficient filling under the faux leather is extra important: a base that is too hard makes seams and edges show through more quickly.
Choose on use, not just on looks
A fabric sample on the table tells you a lot, but not everything. So ask yourself a few practical questions. How often will the furniture be used? Will it stand in direct sunlight? Are there children, pets or intensive use by guests? And how important is ease of care?
For sofas and dining chairs used every day, a strong, closed upholstery fabric is often the safest choice. Fabrics with water-repellent or pet-friendly properties can make a big difference in a busy household. Water-repellent does not mean stains are impossible, but it gives you more time to blot up spilled liquid before it soaks into the fibres.
For hospitality, waiting rooms and other heavily used projects, cleanability counts as well as abrasion resistance. Don't choose the most delicate texture there just because it looks nice in the showroom. A material that is easy to maintain saves time and replacement costs later.
If in doubt, order fabric samples first. Assess them at home in daylight and artificial light, place them next to the floor and wall and feel the texture. Beige, grey, green and taupe in particular can change a lot depending on their surroundings. In the BLADI upholstery fabrics showroom you can also compare textures side by side and choose more precisely.
Foam and comfort layers: this is where the seating posture is decided
Foam is not simply foam. The right quality depends on the application, the desired firmness and the thickness of the cushion. A seat needs resilient, firm furniture foam that can withstand repeated sitting. A quality that is too soft feels comfortable at first but can sag more quickly. For a back cushion, on the other hand, a softer build-up is often more pleasant.
Thickness plays a part too. A thin seat with hard foam feels different from a thick seat with a medium-firm core. So don't work blindly with one material for every part. A dining chair usually needs compact support, while a lounge cushion can have comfort and a softer top layer.
Dacron, also known as polyester wadding, goes over the foam. This layer softens sharp edges, improves the shape and helps prevent the upholstery from rubbing directly on the foam. As a result, the fabric pulls taut more evenly and a cushion looks neater for longer. For loose cushions, Dacron is almost always a smart addition. See, for example, our fiberfill per roll.
For extra soft back or scatter cushions, fibre filling, fiberfill or other fillings may be suitable. Do bear maintenance in mind: loose fillings sometimes need plumping up to keep their volume. If you want a tight, shape-retaining result, foam with Dacron is the more common choice.
Support: webbing, springs and bottom cloth
Under the filling is the load-bearing layer. In modern furniture this is often elastic webbing. The webbing is stretched tightly and evenly across the frame and gives the seat or back its spring. Too little tension gives a slack seat, but over-tensioning makes the furniture hard. The right tension depends on the type of webbing, the width of the frame and the spring you want.
In classic furniture you may come across springs, hessian and traditional materials. This requires a different method and more experience, but when properly restored it gives a particularly durable and authentic seat. With old furniture, always check the frame first. Repairing loose joints or broken wooden parts first makes more sense than pulling a new fabric over an unstable base.
Bottom cloth on the underside finishes the furniture neatly and protects the inside from dust. It is a small detail that instantly makes a reupholstered piece look more professional. Use a sturdy, suitable bottom cloth and fix it tightly without obstructing the construction or legs.
The finish makes the difference
A beautiful upholstery fabric can look messy because of a careless finish. Piping, gimp braid, decorative nails or decorative cords neatly conceal seams and transitions. They are not just decorative: in some designs they also protect the edge where fabric pieces meet.
For fixing, use staples of the right length. The staple must grip deep enough into the wood without coming through on the other side. A hand tacker is suitable for small, light jobs, but with thicker fabrics, hard wood or larger projects a professional stapler works faster and more consistently. For visible seams, use strong upholstery thread that matches the fabric in colour or deliberately contrasts with it. See, for example, our type 80 pneumatic stapler.
Adhesive is useful for things like foam, Dacron and certain finishing edges, but it does not replace a good mechanical fixing where there is pulling force. Apply adhesive evenly, let it dry briefly according to the instructions and avoid using too much. Adhesive residue can show through thin or light fabrics.
Allow enough material and work in the right order
Don't just measure a piece of furniture at the front. Include the height, width, depth, armrests, cushions and all side surfaces. Add extra fabric for seams, turn-unders, pattern direction and possible mistakes. With fabrics with a distinct pile, check, stripe or rib you have more cutting waste, because every piece has to lie in the same direction.
Before you start, take photos of the old upholstery and remove it step by step. The old pieces are often the best patterns for the new fabric. Mark where seams, pleats and fixing points were. Then check the frame, webbing and filling before you fix the new upholstery. That way you avoid having to remove a beautiful fabric because an inner layer should have been replaced after all.
In the end, the best choice of materials is the one that suits your furniture and your use. Give a much-used chair a strong, practical build-up; feel free to give a special armchair more character with a striking texture. With the right fabric, a solid comfort layer and a neat finish, reupholstering is not a temporary spruce-up, but gives you a piece of furniture you will enjoy sitting on for years.
